Chemically known as Octadecanoic Acid, a long-chain fatty acid named because for its 18-carbon chain, this under-valued saturated fatty acid is the main constituent of both Cocoa and Shea butter. This vegetable (palm oil) derived wax is used as an emulsifier which blends oils and water together for making creams and lotions.
Physically it is an almost white, hard wax (free flowing flakes) with a mild odour. It is soluble in oil but only slightly dissolves in water, and forms non-ionic, oil/water emulsions of good stability and colour.
It is an ideal base for creams and ointments, and handy to have available if you run out of one of the more special emulsifying waxes. The emulsions that it forms are very stable, tolerant of pH and dissolved electrolytes, and is compatible with a wide range of additives, such as emollients and cleansing oils. And it has a beautiful velvety texture which foams well when added to shampoos and soaps (think shaving soaps and shampoo bars). And a pearly finish to lubricants.
Consistency is controllable by varying the water content of the emulsion, just like the other waxes.
Stearic acid also helps to harden cosmetics (lipstick, mascara, pencils) whilst not losing the glide (unless you add to much). And its occlusive properties help the skin remain hydrated by preventing or slowing moisture loss from the skin’s surface (daytime moisturisers, sunfilter lotions)
This makes stearic acid an alternative choice as the main emulsifying ingredient in a wide range of cosmetics and toiletries, such as hand creams, skin lotions, cleansing creams, hair conditioners, mascaras, candles, and if you need to thicken up a body butter because it is separating on you.
It may be used along with an emollient or a cleansing oil such as glycerin or vegetable oil.
Manufactured in Australia from Palm Oil plantations grown in Australia.
USAGE: Approximately 4-5% of your formulation. Use in the Oil Phase.