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How to make a Lotion

Sep012009

 

A lotion is an emulsion and can be either oil-in-water (contains more water than oil), or water-in-oil (contains more oil that water).

Lotions are wonderful moisturisers and can also be used as a treatment base for skin conditions.

Basic Recipe for a Lotion (Oil in Water Emulsion), 200ml

Difficulty: Medium

Ingredients

qty

Function

Phase 1 – Oil

Emulsifying wax

10gm

Emulsifier

Vegetable oil

30ml

Emollient
     

Phase 2 – Water

    

Purified water

150ml

Moisturiser

Vegetable glycerin

5ml

Humectant

Myrrh Tincture

2ml

Preservative

 

  1. Weigh out your ingredients.
  2. If using your microwave, make sure it is clean on the inside.
  3. Place the waxes and other solid fats which you may be incorporating (cocoa butter, shea butter) into a pyrex bowl or jug.
  4. Place the Phase 1 ingredients bowl over a saucepan partially filled with water, and place on the stove or hot plate.  Slowly bring the water to the boil to melt the waxes.
  5. Add vegetable oils to the melted waxes and heat until the oil phase reaches 65-70°C.  If you are using oils high in EFA’s (evening primrose oil, rosehip oil or linseed oil), add them after you have heated your other vegetable oils so you do not lose their properties.
  6. Pour all water phase ingredients into another pyrex bowl or jug.  A jug is easier to work with for this phase if you have one.
  7. Place Phase 2 jug in microwave and heat on medium, 30 seconds at a time to 65-70°C.
  8. Now that both phases have reached the same temperature range, slowly pour the water into the oil phase, whilst keeping the oil phase on the pan of hot water.  Stir continuously whilst doing this to help emulsification.
  9. Once all the water phase ingredients have been added into the oil phase, remove the bowl from the heat.  (I usually place it on a tea towel on the bench so it doesn’t cool down too fast.)  The emulsion will look watery and milky.
  10. Continue stirring slowly and steadily to prevent air bubbles as they will cause separation as it cools.  This is when your stick blender comes in very handy – slow speed bursts for 20-30 seconds.  Run your spoon over the bottom between each burst to ensure the ingredients on the bottom become totally blended (homogenization).
  11. When the emulsion cools to 45°C, add your essential oils and blend thoroughly.
  12. Once the emulsion begins to thicken, pour into jars, cap and label.

Additives:

Essential oils – 15-20 drops/100gm of moisturiser

Herbs – use herb infused oils in lieu of plain vegetable oils, or herb infused waters in place of plain water.

 

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